Tuesday, October 21, 2014

Kudremukh - Once again !!

     My last trek with "Crazy Hikers" was to Kuduremukh peek on 7th December last year. Many friends who could not join then were requesting for a trek to Kuduremukh again. Last year, we did trek every month and had different experiences in wilderness. Some friends got married, some left the company and various other commitments damaged our group's reputation as "Crazy Hikers" :).  Every time we met each other at office, we used to discuss about our next trek but it was not getting materialized. 

     Finally, Laxmi took a bold step and declared that we are going on 17th October no matter who comes are not. We then started choosing the place to go, and "Bandaje" came out. I've gone to "Bandaje" two times already but still would love to go again. I had my daughter's first term exam results & grand father's ceremony on Saturday (18th Oct) due to which I wasn't able to join this trek. But, I wanted others to continue as per the plan, otherwise people loose interest. Every time one or the other person has reasons to drop out, and we can't satisfy everyone. I was lucky this time, as few others also dropped out, Laxmi postponed "Bandaje" trek to a future date. Few people were still interested for a trek during that weekend, and I suggested "Kuduremukh" & I could join the trek if we start on Saturday night. As usual, we started roping in people & formed a team of sixteen people. 


     Trekking in a large group has both advantages & dis-advantages. The advantage is that you have many friends to share experiences and enjoy. The dis-advantage is that coordinating with every member will be difficult. As they say - "A team can perform as fast as its slowest member of the team", the team's pace will be decided by the slowest walking person. We prefer "fun" over "pace", so in most of the treks we will be more than 10 people. 

     We divided the trip logistics among ourselves. Prakash booked a 20 seater "Swaraj Mazda" at 20 Rs/Km rate, Laxmi & Prabin co-ordinated with all the members and ensured that everyone boards the bus at the right time. I called up Rajappa (Raje gowda) at Mullodi, and requested to send two Jeeps to Balegallu around 5:30am on Sunday. I also requested him to prepare only "white rice" for the lunch. Last time, the "Lemon rice" he had prepared was extra-rich in oil, and we could not eat properly. So this time, thought of taking "Puliyogare mix" (a paste made out of Tamarind & Jaggery) with us and mix it with "white rice" ourselves. The plan was to start at 10:30pm from Bangalore, go via Hassan > Mudigere > Kottigehara > Kalasa and reach Balegallu by 5:30am on Sunday. The first pickup point was Jayadeva hospital at 9:30pm. Prabin, Anusha, Debashish, Raghu, Ankit, Sangeetha & Ravi boarded the bus at Jayadeva, Prakash, Laxmi, Kavitha, Satish ponnusamy joined at Delmia circle. Me, Deepa, Roopa & Sangita (Roopa's sister) joined them at Devegowda petrol bunk. Last person Karthik joined us at Goragunte palya on the way. 


     Everything was going as per the plan except that the bus we were travelling wasn't comfortable. It was going fast and road was good, but the seats weren't designed for long journey. Laxmi had brought a sleeping mat and we shared the mat & slept on the aisle between the seats. At 3:18am I woke up to check out where we were, and google map showed another 1.5 hrs to Kalasa. We were near Kottigehara by 3:30am, and we stopped the bus to have a cup of coffee/tea at "Indian Cafe". It was still dark, so I told Lohith (driver) to go little slow. The road between Kottigehara & Kalasa had lot of curves and I felt like vomiting but somehow controlled. We reached Balegallu just 2 minutes early to the expected 5:30am. It wasn't a surprise to see 4-5 vechicles parked already which indicated the number of trekkers present there. After morning rituals we were transported to Rajappa's house in two jeeps. Rajappa welcomed us with a big smile and I reminded him about our visit last year. We were given a room to change the dress & keep our baggage. Since no one is allowed to camp at the top, there is no point in carrying anything except food & water.

     After having Idli's for the breakfast, we prepared "puliyogare rice" for the lunch there itself and distributed the packets to all & started our trek around 8:15am. Some say the trek distance is 9  kms one way, and some say 11 kms. Google's "My tracks" app clocked around 8 kms !!. A small team would cover this distance in around 3.5 to 4 hrs, with a large group it will take an hour extra. We paid 275.00 Rs per head forest entry fee to Rajappa. He said, he will pay 8,000/- Rs every month to local forest department guys, otherwise he will be tortured for unnecessary reasons. Well, without knowing the other side story, I can't conclude anything in this case, but the forest department doesn't provide any assistance to trekkers after taking 275.00 Rs. In Kumara parvatha trail, there are sign boards and mile stones but nothing here except at the top. Ravi & Prakash, who were coming in the last, lost their trail twice but luckily could find the proper trail.

     

     This trek was special to me, as I was accompanied by my wife. It was her second trek but still I was concerned whether she can do it or not. There were few other first timers & I was mentally prepared to come back from the point where they feel they can't proceed. But, all of them were very brave & strong and completed entire trek without any complaints. The last year's trek was still fresh in my mind, and I could recall what we did at every turn & forest patch. After some 25 minutes of walking, we reached "Bodhi vriksh" (A temple tree where Buddha was enlightened) & then reached a stream. Ravi & Prakash were behind, trying to shoot some Scarlet Minivets & Rose ringed parakeets, and we waited for them. Raghu & Satish went back in search of them, when they didn't turn up after 10 minutes also. While we were waiting for them, I shot this slow-shutter image of the stream. 


When Ravi & Prakash joined us, all others continued the trek and I stayed with them trying some more shots of the stream. A frog suddenly appeared on a rock & posed comfortably. There was no light, so had to bump up the ISO to get a good shot. Ravi & PK continued their shooting, and I started walking. After this stream, there is a steep climb and then trails splits into two. One trail goes down towards the stream, and this is where Ravi & PK had lost their way. 

     The trail is very clear, most of the times in open land and 4-5 times goes through forest. At another stream ahead, the trail splits into two, and we had to choose left one. We placed rocks one above another to make a pyramid, to indicate the direction for late comers. After crossing the stream, we hit an open land and from there the Kuduremukh peek was clearly seen. It is when we spotted, 4-5 people on a different mountain. I thought they must have gone there by mistake, but later came to know that, that is another peek called "Thirumalaguppe", which is just 5 kms from Rajappa's house. After walking few more minutes, we saw a damaged home (?!), perhaps someone lived there long long ago. Ravi & Prakash were still behind, and all others have gone ahead. I was walking alone, when I met two birders from Mangalore. They were pointing at a distant bird & were trying to photograph with a Canon 100-400mm lens. I greeted them and moved on. Just after I came out of this forest patch, there is a steep climb for some 1 hour, which is to me, is the first exam. After climbing this part, I could clearly see people on the ridge walking towards the peek. I checked "My Tracks" app, and it showed around 4.2 kms and the time was 10:50am. Raghu was carrying my bag with food & water and he was very much ahead.
Deepa was resting under a lonely tree and the view from there was awesome. All the pain of climbing in hot sun was taken away instantaneously. Roopa & Sangeetha joined us & she kindly shared an Orange, which gave some energy to trek further. Deepa & I continued the trek, while Roopa & Sangeeta took rest. It was a steep climb again from here and after crossing a forest patch, we reached a water source. Raghu was taking rest with others, and I happily searched my bag he was carrying for two Oranges I'd kept. Where are the Oranges !?, he had eaten both. I had no reason to be angry on him, as he was helping me by carrying my bag. Its really difficult to manage the trekking & photography at the same time. It was difficult for me manage my camera with all the graduated neutral density filters while carrying backpack with food & water. Raghu was walking empty handed, so handed over my bag to him. Sangeetha (Ravi's wife) arrived right in time and gave couple of Oranges. We ate one and saved another in the Camera bag for future use. After filling the water bottles, I and Deepa continued our journey, while others waited. Deepa wanted to walk continuously until the destination is reached. But, when beautiful landscape & cloud clad mountains are in front of me, how can I continue without taking a photo ?. The lighting changes, clouds formation changes every minute and gives spectacular show. I cursed myself for not carrying a tripod. We reached the top around 2:15pm, and there is a water source just before the final climb to the peek. We started our "Puliyogare" lunch, with Curds & raw onions. Laxmi & others joined us after five minutes. Some chose to eat near the water stream, while some went up to the peek & had lunch.
 There were lot of people on the peek, most of them from the "Bangalore Ascenders" group. After lunch some people took some power nap, while I tried my hands at time-lapse photography. It was very windy & the clouds were moving very quickly. None of us for a moment thought that it may rain. It was 3:15pm, when Deepa & Laxmi reminded about the time. Last time, we took around 2.5 hours to go down without stopping anywhere. So, with that data in mind, I was confident that we can go back before it gets dark. But the Nature had something different to offer. It started drizzling, so after a quick group photo, we hurried back. Just as we walked for 5 minutes, it started raining. We neither had any shelter nor time, so we continued walking. Rain stopped after 5 minutes, but had done all the damage it could do. It was very slippery, and we had to walk carefully & slowly. Despite all the care, some of us had great fall :). I thought the rain god showed mercy on us, and it won't rain again. I was proved wrong after 30 minutes of walk, when the downpour started. It rained for almost 45 minutes, and we had no option but to walk. We came down to that damaged house by around 5:45pm, and it was still a long way to go. The chances of reaching Rajappa's house before dark looked dim. We just walked, walked until we reached the "Bodhi vriksha". It was completely dark, and we didn't have proper torches except the mobile torch app. Somehow, we managed to walk in the darkness, and reached Rajappa's house by night 7:15pm. Onion pakodas & Coffee was ready for us. After getting refreshed, we were transported back to Balegallu. By 8:30pm we started our journey back to Bangalore. Everybody except few were exhausted, and they slept as soon as they got into the bus. We stopped at "Indian cafe", Kottigehara for dinner and resumed our journey back. We reached Bangalore around 4:30am, and dispersed after settlement with the Bus driver.

     Here are some snapshots from "My Tracks" app for this trek.

 




Happy trekking !! Happy Deepavali !! Good Night !!


     

Saturday, February 8, 2014

Delhi airport link hotel

Reached Delhi at midnight yesterday and checked in to hotel airport link close to Airport at mahipalpur. We had flight to Leh at 8:40am today but GoAir canceled the flight quoting operational issues. It is rescheduled to10th Feb morning. Now we need to spend two days in Delhi. Friends are planning to go to Agra.  Let's see how it goes. ...

Saturday, February 1, 2014

Chadar - My dream trek...

     It's been ten months since my friend Satish came back from this chadar trek in ladakh region and shared his photos. Since then I've been dreaming of this trek. Last year in October when friends in office went to roop kund trek, I could not join them due to some commitments in office and felt very disappointed. Now, in last December when Srinivas asked if I would be interested in Chadar trek, I readily agreed. All bookings happened within a week. Usually people go through India hikes group but we selected trek the Himalayas group as it was little cheaper.  Safety can't be compromised for price, so after reading lot of reviews on TTH we learnt that it is one of the group recommended by US Embassy, and felt little relieved. Srinivas paid 19k per person fees for the trek while I did the flight bookings. From Bangalore to Delhi night Indigo flight and Delhi to Leh morning flight. I booked the tickets well in advance but still they were not cheap.
     
     Trekking in high altitudes is not an easy job. Though I've done many treks in karnataka the terrain in Himalayas is different. Chadar means blanket in Hindi. During winter temperature drops to below freezing point to the order of -25 degree celcius to -30 degree C, and a thick chadar will be formed on the Zhanskar River in the valley.  All paths to this valley will be closed and people use this chadar route to commute. I've done many treks in Western ghats but the freezing climatic conditions & challenges of high altitude trek is seriously a matter of concern for me. Back in 2012, I'd done a 25 kms trek near Dalhousie through Youth Hostels Association. That was infact, my first exposure to Himalayas and I'd experienced a very very cold night at a place called "Kalatop" near "Lakhanmandi". That night, I'd told to myself, that I will never come back to Himalayas if I go home safely. But again in October 2013, I planned a family trip to Leh-Ladakh. We hired a Tavera from Delhi, and travelled all the way up to "Sarchu". That night at "Sarchu", was the coldest night of our lifetime. None of my family members will ever forget that night. My father had "Heart by-pass surgery" during the previous Christmas (I'd been to Dalhousie trek after that surgery), and father-in-law also had some health problems & he complained of loss of breath that night. At high altitudes, the air will be thin and contains less oxygen. So one should take slow & deep breath, but the air will be chilling, so you can't take deep breath posing the biggest challenge. If there is no wind you are lucky, otherwise, it will make you feel more colder. But the strong burning desire of doing "Chadar" trek motivated me and I was mentally prepared to take the challenge & face the odds.

     Fitness, is something I've given priority in my life ever since I started going for treks. I still remember how I struggled to climb a mountain during my first Bandaje trek. For the sake of trekking, I decided to be fit and joined a nearby Gym. When I'd joined Gym, I was unable to run even 100 meters, but now I'm proud that I can run continuously for 2.5 kilo meters. Now, for "Chadar" trek I started preparing myself, by walking 5 Kms daily (ofcourse on treadmill), and drinking more water (as suggested in some blog). I think most part of the "Chadar" trek is on the frozen river, and there will be no uphill climb required, except at places where river is not frozen. 

     Cost, is another factor you should seriously think about while doing Himalayan treks. Fees for most of the treks will range from 5k to 20k rupees, but if you are a first timer, you need to buy all the equipments & apparales for high altitude treks. Good pair of shoes, Good warmers, Good jackets (down jacket, fleece jacket), Good goggles, Good rucksack and the list of "Goods.." goes on while you prepare for the trek. Some of the items you can take on rent but not all. I had spent close to 5k rupees on apparels for my first Dalhousie trek, but from my past experience, I knew that it is not sufficient. I bought a new pair of shoes, warmers, down jackets, goggles from "Decathlon". I hope the quality of "Quechua", protects me from biting cold :)

     Only 6 days left for my flight to Delhi. I don't know, if I get time before that to update this post. Once I come back from the trip, will update this post with real experience & photos. -- Good night :)


04 Feb: Today, I was about to cancel my trek :(. Suddenly, lot of work has come to the team and everyone in the team has to put in extra effort to do that work. I will loose around 30,000 rupees if I cancel this trek :(, but I'm ready since work is important than passion. Since the cancellation fee is high, my manager & senior manager are saying to carry on with the trek.


06 Feb: Srini called me to give shocking information. The Go Air flight from Delhi to Leh on 08th morning had been cancelled due to some operational issues. No one from GoAir had called me to inform about it, so I called their call centre to confirm that news. The guy on call asked me to reschedule to 12th Feb or get a full refund. I argued with him for some time, and finally he agreed to reschedule to 10th Feb. Now, we had to make arrangements to stay two days & two nights at Delhi.

07 Feb: As planned, I & Srini went to Airport in RR Taxi cab. The traffic near Mekhri circle was horrible, but the new fly over after Hebbal made journey easier and we reached Airport in time. We reached Delhi around 11:30pm and hired a taxi to check in to pre-booked hotel Airpot link at Mahipalpur. Other 3 friends, Guru, Shetty & Shubam had already checked in that hotel. We greeted each other, discussed a plan to visit Agra & Mathura in the next two days & slept.